Feature Articles | Introduction | Training and Fitness

Climbing the Appalachians

I can read books and daydream about higher mountains
or I can climb the ones right in front of me.

Stephen’s Mountain Ascents

Peak

Range

Date

Route

Elevation

Gain

Summit

Mt. Le Conte

Appalachian

6/30-7/1/08

Alum Cave

6,593

2,700

Yes

Mt. Princeton

Rockies

10/7/07

East Ridge

14,197

2,300

No

Tigger Peak

Rockies

10/7/07

East Face

13,300

1,400

Yes

Grassy Ridge Bald

Roan Mtns

1/19/07

AT

6,189

577

Yes

Jane Bald

Roan Mtns

1/19/07

AT

5,807

577

Yes

Round Bald

Roan Mtns

1/19/07

AT

5,512

577

Yes

Chimney Tops

Appalachian

11/18/06

Road Prong

4,700

1,700

Yes

Winter Star

Black Mtns

10/30/06

Colbert Ridge

6,203

3,463

Yes

Blood Mountain

Blue Ridge

4/9/06

AT

4,458

1,400

Yes

Turkey Stamp

Blue Ridge

4/9/06

North Face

3,749

1,400

Yes

Mt. Sterling

Appalachian

1/31/05

Mt. Sterling

5,842

2,250

Yes

Nettle Creek Bald

Appalachian

1/17/06

North Face

5,140

2,800

Yes

Newton Bald

Appalachian

1/17/06

Newton Bald

5,180

2,700

Yes

Mt. Le Conte

Appalachian

11/16/05

Alum Cave

6,593

2,700

Yes

Peregrine Pk

Appalachian

11/16/05

Alum Cave

5,375

1,500

No – off trail

Mt. Kephart

Appalachian

11/3/05

AT

6,217

1,800

Yes

Mt. Ambler

Appalachian

11/3/05

AT

6,120

1,700

Yes

Mt. Democrat

Rockies

10/4/05

East Face

14,152

3,000

No – weather

Its hard to be satisfied with a climb when some do-gooder has built marked trails to the tops of all the big mountains. Appalachian climbers sympathize with Sir Edmund Hillary when he commented on the first-ever helicopter landing on the top of Mount Everest by saying "why don't they just install an elevator to the top?" In the mother of all blasphemies, a road has been built to the top of 6,643 foot Clingman's Dome, meaning that those who actually climb to the summit on their own two feet are likely to be greeted by a swarm of kindergarteners spilling out of their soccer mom's mini-van. Hence, due to the Evil Forces Of Civilization, finding respectable climbs in the eastern United States is not an easy task.
 
However, a few pristine corners of the Appalachian chain are still beyond the reach of the casual tourist. Today, the Smokies are covered with a thick blanket of trees that make the range look more like smooth, rolling terrain than rugged mountains. But underneath those trees lie coarse, broken ridges and peaks that were far more evident before the establishment of a national park whose agenda has been to artifically prevent natural deforestation from disease, age and fires.
 
The black and white photo shown here, taken by a zealous hiking club member named Dutch Roth around 1930, shows what Charles Bunion (5,565') and Sawteeth peaks looked like before being taken from their private owners for the creation of the Great Smoky Mountain National Park in 1934. The peaks are rocky and rugged, though from a distance they no longer appear that way after seventy years of managed forestation. A climber was forced to... well... climb to the summit, frequently getting his clothes dirty in the process. The quick-witted among us will notice a distressing shortage of mini-vans at the top.

To be sure, the Appalachians pale in comparison to the challenge of climbing in any honest-to-goodness alpine environment, but a few carefully selected areas still offer enough resistance to make you cold, mad and miserable, just like a real mountain climber. Winter climbs bring sub-freezing temperatures, snow and ice. Survival skills are sharpened (believe it or not, yes, people have died in these mountains), legs become stronger and experience is gained with every step. And I still have occasional opportunities to travel to the western states for summit attempts on 13,000 to 17,000 foot mountains where alpine-style ascents begin and vanloads of schoolchildren are nowhere to be found.

Although Everest and K2 won't be found on my ascent list any time soon, I've resolved to utilize the limited natural resources at my disposal to the greatest extent possible and enjoy the experience. There are armchair mountaineers who watch it on tv, and there are mountaineers who shoulder their packs and start walking... I'd rather be at the bottom of the second list than the top of the first.


Univ. of TN Libraries, used by permission

Charles Bunion and Sawteeth from below, circa 1930


The same peaks, taken from a distance in 2005


Security is an illusion. Life is either a daring adventure or it is nothing at all.
- Helen Keller